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- Most riders have a narrow comfortable cadence range (75–85 rpm). Expanding it to 60–110 rpm gives you more gears to use, more efficiency in different situations, and better bike handling (high cadence = less torque per stroke = less chance of breaking traction)
- High-spin drill: 1 minute at 110+ rpm, 1 minute easy, ×6. Teaches your neuromuscular system to pedal fast without bouncing — essential for responding to attacks and sprinting
- Slow-turn drill: 2 minutes at 50–60 rpm at moderate resistance, ×4. Builds strength-endurance (more force per pedal stroke) — useful for climbing in big gears
- One-leg drill: 30 seconds per leg, 3 sets. Reveals and fixes dead spots in your pedal stroke. The single best drill for pedaling efficiency
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Why cadence range matters
Most recreational cyclists ride in a narrow cadence band — 75–85 rpm — regardless of terrain. This works fine until the terrain demands something different: a steep climb where you need 70 rpm (more torque), a fast descent where you spin to 100+ rpm (maintaining speed), or a sudden acceleration where you need 110+ rpm to respond. A rider who can only pedal 75–85 rpm is limited — they grind up climbs, spin out on descents, and can't respond to surges.
Expanding your usable cadence range to 60–110 rpm makes you a more versatile, efficient rider. You have more gears to choose from, more tools for different situations. The drills below expand the range.
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The 3 drills
The 3 cadence drills. Do them once a week, warm, within an endurance ride.
| Drill | Format | Target | Benefit |
|---|---|---|---|
| High-spin | 6×(1 min at 110+ rpm / 1 min easy) | Smooth pedaling at high cadence, no bouncing | Neuromuscular speed; sprint response |
| Slow-turn | 4×(2 min at 50–60 rpm, moderate resistance) | Forceful, controlled pedaling at low cadence | Strength-endurance; climbing power |
| One-leg | 3×(30 sec per leg, each) | Smooth circle with no dead spots | Pedal-stroke efficiency |
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How to do them
High-spin: shift to an easy gear and spin up to 110+ rpm. The goal is SMOOTH — if your hips bounce on the saddle, you're not controlling the pedal stroke. Back off 5 rpm and smooth it out. Over weeks, you'll be able to hold 110+ smoothly. This drill teaches fast muscle recruitment — the ability to contract and relax muscles quickly. It's what lets you respond to a sudden attack without grinding.
Slow-turn: shift to a hard gear and pedal at 50–60 rpm (a 'grinding' cadence) at moderate resistance — NOT maximum effort. The goal is smooth, powerful pedaling at low cadence. This builds strength-endurance: the ability to produce force on each pedal stroke, which matters on steep climbs where high cadence isn't possible. Don't push so hard that your knees hurt — moderate resistance, not a strength test.
One-leg: unclip one foot (rest it on the chainstay or a bottle cage). Pedal with the other leg at 80–90 rpm, moderate resistance. You'll immediately feel the dead spots — where neither pushing down nor pulling up is happening (usually at the top, 11–1 o'clock). Your job: smooth them. Focus on transitioning power smoothly through the top and bottom of the stroke. 30 seconds per leg, 3 sets. This is the single most effective drill for improving pedaling efficiency.
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Finding YOUR optimal cadence
After expanding your range, experiment: on a flat road at a fixed power (say, 200W), try pedaling at 70, 80, 90, and 100 rpm. Which feels easiest at that power? Which heart rate is lowest? That's your naturally efficient cadence for that power. Most riders find 85–95 rpm is most efficient aerobically (lowest HR for the same power) on flat terrain. On climbs, slightly lower (75–85 rpm) because more force is needed per stroke.
Don't force a number — let your body find it. But if your natural cadence is below 75 rpm, you're likely riding too hard a gear (grinding), which fatigues muscles faster and is less efficient. Consciously shift to an easier gear and aim for 85+ rpm. Within a few weeks, it'll feel natural.
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