AI quick summary
- Body position: drop to the drops (lower center of gravity, better braking leverage), weight the outside pedal (down) in corners, keep elbows bent and core engaged
- Brake before the corner, not in it — trail braking is for experts; for most riders, set speed early, then release and let the bike carve. Front brake does 70% of stopping; don't be afraid of it
- Look where you want to go, not at what you want to avoid — the bike follows your eyes. Fixate on the ditch and you'll ride into it
- Read the road: surface (wet leaves, paint, gravel), camber, traffic, and the exit of the corner. The exit dictates your entry speed
/ 01
Body position
Get in the drops. The drops lower your center of gravity (more stable), give you the most braking leverage, and put your weight forward over the front wheel (preventing the front-end washout that causes most descents crashes). Riding the hoods at speed is less stable and offers less braking power — the drops are the correct position for fast descending.
In corners, weight the outside pedal (push it down) and drop your inside hip. This lowers your center of gravity, grips the tires, and lets the bike lean. Keep your upper body relaxed — tense arms make the bike twitchy; bent elbows let the front wheel track the road.
Look ahead, not down. Your eyes should be scanning the exit of the corner and the road beyond — the bike follows your gaze. Fixate on the obstacle you want to avoid and you'll steer into it (target fixation). Look where you want to go.
/ 02
Braking
Brake before the corner, not in it. Set your speed early (on the straight before the turn), then release the brakes and let the bike carve through the corner at a constant speed. Braking mid-corner unweights the tires and causes slides. Trail braking (gradually releasing the front brake through the corner) is an advanced technique — for most riders, brake-then-release is safer and nearly as fast.
Use both brakes, with more front than rear. The front brake does ~70% of the stopping (weight transfers forward under braking, loading the front tire). Riders who avoid the front brake (fear of going over the bars) sacrifice most of their stopping power. Squeeze progressively, not grab — a sudden front-brake grab in a corner is what causes washouts; a smooth, firm squeeze is safe and powerful.
/ 03
Cornering line
The classic line: enter wide (outside of the turn), apex (clip the inside at the midpoint), exit wide (outside). This straightens the corner, letting you carry more speed through it. It's the fastest line AND the safest (it uses the full width of your lane).
On public roads with traffic, you can't always use the full lane — oncoming cars, debris on the shoulder. Adapt: take a late apex (enter less wide, apex later in the corner) which keeps you away from the centerline and gives you a better view of the exit. Sacrifice a little speed for sightlines and safety.
Read the road surface: wet leaves, painted lines, metal manhole covers, and loose gravel are all slippery. Adjust your line or speed to avoid them. The camber (tilt) of the road matters too — off-camber corners (tilting away from the turn) require lower speed.
/ 04
Reading the road
The exit dictates your entry speed. If you can see a clear, open exit, you can carry more speed into the corner. If the exit is blind (you can't see what's beyond the apex), slow down more — there could be a stopped car, a junction, or debris around the bend.
Scan three points: the entry (where you'll brake), the apex (where you'll lean), and the exit (where you'll accelerate). Your eyes should move ahead of the bike — look to the apex as you enter, to the exit as you pass the apex. The faster you go, the further ahead you must look.
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